Acne: Read in the order of your curiosity

Before concluding based on a single red spot

Acne: Depth of symptoms and remaining scars

Acne begins with follicular keratinization, where dead skin cells at the opening of the hair follicle tangle with sebum to block it, and within that, the naturally occurring acne bacteriaThis is the process involved in this inflammation. Hormonal changes such as puberty or pregnancy, family history, and certain medications can increase the risk of occurrence, and skin or hair products that block pores may also be related to acne. Diet or stress can be aggravating factors for some people, but a single food or cleansing habit cannot be concluded as the sole cause of all acne.

Let's examine a case where acne has worsened

Why we look at the location of acne and the factors immediately preceding the change together

Rather than a single isolated incident, check if it recurs under the same conditions. For acne deep within the skin or changes affecting the entire body, first seek a medical evaluation from a dermatologist.

Recurring ScenarioFactors to ConsiderFirst Steps
Blackheads, whiteheads, and red pimples appearing togetherPores clogged by sebum and dead skin cells, leading to inflammationRecord the shape and location of acne and the number of new breakouts
Worsening during puberty, menstruation, or before/after pregnancyThe effect of hormonal changes on sebaceous glandsRecord the cycle, timing of worsening, and other bodily changes
Recurrence on the forehead or hairline after using a new productThe effect of skin or hair products that clog poresCheck for 'oil-free' or 'non-comedogenic' labels and the area of contact
Sudden increase after starting a new prescription medicationThe time relationship with certain medicationsDo not stop medication arbitrarily; consult your prescriber
Increase in deep, painful nodules or the appearance of scarsRisk of severe inflammation and scarringPrioritize diagnosis and treatment at a dermatology clinic

When to seek medical evaluation first

Changes that require action beyond simply recording the cause

For the following changes, you must first check for the risk of scarring, other skin infections, drug reactions, or underlying medical conditions.

  • Cases where deep, painful nodules increase rapidly or scarring begins to occur
  • If redness, heat sensation, or swelling spreads rapidly across the face and is accompanied by a fever
  • If widespread rashes, mouth sores or peeling, facial swelling, or difficulty breathing occur after starting a new medication
  • If sudden severe adult acne occurs alongside other changes such as irregular menstruation or hirsutism (excessive hair growth)
  • If acne disrupts daily life or leads to thoughts of self-harm

When new acne returns even after using sebum regulators, antibiotics, or extraction

We do not simply reduce existing acne; we diagnose the body's internal conditions that cause acne to recur

comedones·We analyze the ratio of papules, pustules, and nodules alongside facial heat, sebum, digestion/bowel movements, sleep/stress, and the pre- and post-menstrual periods in a single comprehensive view. Even for the same type of acne, the herbal medicine prescription varies depending on whether we need to lower heat, regulate dampness, or support dry recovery.

Criteria for monitoring the rate of new acne formation compared to current acne

We compare the number of new papules, pustules, and nodules, as well as the recurrence interval in the same locations, using daytime photos taken under consistent lighting.

Aligning the timing of skin and systemic deterioration

We examine whether sensations of heat in the upper body, sebum production, digestion, constipation, sleep, or menstruation fluctuated before the acne appeared.

Prescriptions are not fixed for the inflammatory and recovery phases

We adjust the proportion of medicinal herbs used during the red and painful phase versus the phase characterized by dryness, scarring, and delayed recovery.

Treatment GoalThe primary goal is to reduce the rate of new inflammation and the recurrence interval in the same locations. We adjust the prescription to ensure that skin condition and sleep, digestion, and menstrual rhythms are not significantly disrupted while tapering off the medication.

Consult using 7-day acne photos and records of new acne
A close-up reproduction image showing small comedones and red papules scattered near the forehead, temples, and hairline
01 · First, observe the depth of the acneComedones and inflammation appearing together on the forehead and temples

Skin-colored bumps and red inflammation can be mixed even within a single area. Rather than just counting the number, record the types of new acne that appear separately.

Educational reproduction images and simplified diagrams of the process do not represent actual patient photos or treatment results.

If you have had these experiences

For those who wonder if new acne every morning is due to diet or cleansing

The ratio of comedones, papules, pustules, and nodules, and facial heat sensation Sebum, digestion/bowel movements, sleep/stress, and the pre- and post-menstrual periods are analyzed in a single comprehensive view. Even for the same type of acne, the herbal medicine prescription varies depending on whether we need to lower heat, regulate dampness, or support dry recovery.

For those who experience recurring comedones and inflammation on the face, chest, and back despite thorough cleansing

When condition improves during medication use but recurs in the same locations after stopping

Those whose acne worsens before or after hormonal changes, such as menstruation or pregnancy

When new acne repeatedly increases during periods of pre- or post-menstruation, staying up all night, stress, or severe digestive discomfort

Those who feel that acne has increased after using new cosmetics, hair products, or prescription medications

When the skin has become dry and sensitive, but facial heat and sebum remain

Close-up reproduction image showing skin-colored closed comedones and some open comedones on the sides of the nose and upper cheeks
02 · View with the main textSmall comedones on the sides of the nose and upper cheeks

Even if there is almost no redness, small bumps may appear continuous depending on the direction of the light. Rather than pushing hard, we check for changes following stimulation.

This is how we examine during the medical evaluation

Acne: Depth of Symptoms and Remaining Marks

Acne begins with follicular keratinization, where dead skin cells at the opening of the hair follicle tangle with sebum and block the pore, follicular keratinizationand within that blockage, acne-causing bacteria naturally living on the skin become involved in inflammation. Hormonal changes such as puberty or pregnancy, family history, and certain medications can increase the risk of occurrence, and skin or hair products that block pores may also be related to acne. Diet or stress can be aggravating factors for some people, but a single food or cleansing habit cannot be concluded as the sole cause of all acne.

First, rule out deep nodules, scars, and other rashes

We check the depth and pain of the acne, the speed of scarring, redness, heat, and symptoms appearing across the entire body to ensure that necessary dermatological care is not delayed.

Align the timing of hormones, products, and medications

We compare the location and start date of the acne, hormonal changes, new products, and all medications taken within the same record.

For recurring acne, clear goals for herbal medicine treatment are established

Herbal medicine treatment aims for the speed and depth of new acne formation, the interval of recurrence in the same spot, skin barrier and recovery. Whether to combine this with necessary dermatological treatments is decided based on current inflammation and medications being taken.

Reasons Why It Does Not Heal Easily

Acne: Why new breakouts continue even after one is calmed

Comedones ·papule· We analyze the ratio of pustules to nodules, along with facial heat, sebum, digestion/bowel movements, sleep/stress, and the pre- and post-menstrual periods on a single chart. Even for the same type of acne, the Korean herbal medicine prescription varies depending on whether the goal is to lower heat, regulate dampness, or support recovery from dryness.

Criteria for monitoring the rate of new breakouts compared to current acne

In daytime photos taken under the same lighting, we compare the number of new papulespustulesand nodules, as well as the interval of recurrence in the same location.

Aligning the timing of skin and body deterioration

We check if facial heat, sebum, digestion, constipation, sleep, or menstruation fluctuated before the acne appeared.

Prescriptions are not fixed for the inflammatory and recovery phases

We adjust the proportion of medicinal herbs depending on whether it is the red and painful phase or the phase characterized by dryness, scarring, and delayed recovery.

Using photos as medical records

For acne, compare 7-day changes using photos taken under the same lighting

If you prepare acne photos, start dates/locations, hormonal changes, new skin or hair products, all prescription medications/supplements, and patterns of recurring flare-ups, Baekrokdam can provide a detailed discussion on how Korean herbal medicine treatment can help.

It is not caused by dirty skin

The process begins when sebum and skin cells clump together inside the pore and cannot be discharged. We do not attempt to solve this through aggressive cleansing or repeated scrubbingas a solution.

It is not solely a bacterial problem

Bacteria naturally living on the skin add to the inflammation within the environment created by Hair follicleclogged pores and sebum. Sebum, pores, and inflammation must be viewed together.

Comedones and red, painful acne can coexist

Clogged pores may appear as blackheads or whiteheads, or they may develop inflammation and turn into red and painful acne, so we record the appearance.

Close-up reproduction image showing deep red nodules and post-inflammatory marks on the lower cheeks, jaw, and upper neck
03 · View with main textDeep inflammation extending down to the jaw

If acne that feels wider and deeper than surface red spots persists, prioritize a dermatology evaluation before scarring occurs.

Pattern Identification for Acne in Korean Herbal Medicine

Why acne prescriptions differ based on sebum, heat, dryness, and menstruation

We distinguish whether the primary cause is heat centered in the upper body with redness, or if it is oily and suppurating damp-heat, whether there is internal heat despite dryness, or if acne concentrates along the jawline before menstruation.

When there are many red papules on the forehead and cheeks, and heat rises to the face

We examine red papules on the upper face, rapid flushing, and a sensation of heat in the upper body. We ask about chest tightness, thirst, dryness, and whether heat rises after tension. The focus is on clearing the lungs and clearing heat to soothe the red inflammation and heat concentrated in the upper body.

When there is excessive sebum and yellow pustules recur around the mouth and cheeks

We examine oiliness, pustules, clogged comedones, and dark marks left after inflammation. We check for bloating, constipation or sticky stools, bad breath, and worsening after alcohol or late-night snacks. We regulate both heat and dampness in the gastrointestinal tract to reduce the burden of sebum and purulent inflammation.

When the skin is dry, but red inflammation appears at night or after fatigue

With flaking and tightness, redness that lasts a long time adult acnedespite dead skin cells and tightness. We check for lack of sleep, nighttime heat sensations, dry mouth, and chronic fatigue. The focus is on nourishing yin and clearing heat to lower remaining deficiency heat while reinforcing depleted recovery power.

Changes to monitor during treatment

Changes to check in next week's photos

The first goal is to reduce the speed at which new inflammation occurs and the Recurrence interval between breakouts in the same area. We adjust the prescription so that skin condition and sleep, digestion, and menstrual rhythms are not significantly disrupted even while reducing medication.

Ratio of comedones, papules, pustules, and nodules, and the number of new acne lesions per week

Please take photos under the same lighting for 7 days, and also record the 'ratio of comedones, papules, pustules,nodulesand nodules, as well as the number of new acne lesions per week.'

Facial heat, sebum, dryness, and digestion, bowel movements, and sleep

Please take photos under the same lighting for 7 days, and also record 'facial heat, sebum, dryness, and digestion, bowel movements, and sleep.'

Menstrual cycle, oral and topical medications, period of improvement, and timing of recurrence

Please take photos under the same lighting for 7 days, and also record 'menstrual cycle, oral and topical medications, period of improvement, and timing of recurrence.'

Medical illustration comparing a normal hair follicle with a hair follicle where sebum and dead skin cells have caused a blockage and surrounding inflammation
04 · View with main textThe process from clogged pores to inflammation

As sebum and dead skin cells accumulate at the entrance of the hair follicle and inflammation deepens, the appearance of the acne and the risk of scarring may change.

Conceptual reference · American Academy of Dermatology: Acne overview

At the crossroads of sebum, heat, and recovery speed

Acne is categorized into Lung-heat/Upper-body heat, Gastrointestinal damp-heat, Yin deficiency internal heat, and Imbalance of Chong and Ren vessels.

We distinguish whether the primary issue is red heat in the upper body, oily and suppurating damp-heat, internal heat despite dry skin, or breakouts concentrated along the jawline before menstruation.

Pattern identification (Byeonjeung) is not about assigning a single constitution name to acne. The priority of the prescription changes depending on the connection between comedones, inflammation, heat sensation, sebum, delayed recovery, and menstruation, sleep, and digestion.

Lung-heat/Upper-body heat type

When there are many red papules on the forehead and cheeks, and heat rises to the face

Changes observed in acne
We observe red papules on the upper face, rapid flushing, and a sensation of heat in the upper body.
Accompanying changes observed in the body
We ask about chest tightness, thirst, dryness, and whether heat rises after tension.
Prescription priority
The focus is on clearing the lungs and clearing heat to soothe the red inflammation and heat concentrated in the upper body.
Gastrointestinal damp-heat type

When there is excessive sebum and yellow pustules recur around the mouth and cheeks

Changes observed in acne
We observe oiliness, pustules, clogged comedones, and deep marks following inflammation.
Accompanying changes observed in the body
We check for bloating, constipation or sticky stools, bad breath, and worsening after alcohol or late-night snacks.
Prescription priority
We reduce the burden of sebum and purulent inflammation by regulating both heat and dampness in the gastrointestinal tract.
Yin deficiency internal heat type

When skin is dry, but red inflammation appears at night or after fatigue

Changes observed in acne
We observe adult acne that is red and long-lasting, accompanied by dead skin cells and tightness.
Accompanying changes observed in the body
We check for lack of sleep, nighttime heat sensations, dry mouth, and chronic fatigue.
Prescription priority
The focus is on nourishing Yin and clearing heat to lower remaining deficiency heat while reinforcing depleted recovery power.
Chong-Im Imbalance Type

When hard, painful acne develops on the chin and neckline before menstruation

Changes observed in acne
We observe nodules and pustules along the jawline and recurrence in the same spots every menstrual cycle.
Accompanying changes observed in the body
We ask about menstrual cramps, cycle changes, a cold sensation in the lower abdomen, breast tenderness, and mood swings.
Prescription priority
We increase the focus on regulating menstruation and soothing the liver to adjust the menstrual rhythm and circulation in the lower abdomen.

Order of prescription adjustment

  1. Criteria for prioritizing the deepest acne and the risk of scarring

    If nodules increase more rapidly than comedones, we increase the priority of skin condition assessment and inflammation control.

  2. We target the factors most closely linked to recurrence among heat, humidity, dryness, and menstruation.

    Skin photos and the sequence of digestion, sleep, and menstruation are linked to the direction of the prescription.

  3. Criteria for adjustment based on new acne and body reactions over 2~4 weeks

    We look at the interval at which acne reappears in the same spot, not just the count. We also check if facial heat, sebum, and the state of digestion and sleep worsen during the same period.

Why consider Korean herbal medicine treatment now?

  • When symptoms improve while taking medicine but recur in the same location after stopping
  • When new acne repeatedly increases during periods of pre- or post-menstruation, staying up all night, stress, or severe digestive discomfort
  • When the skin has become dry and sensitive, but facial heat and sebum remain

What is evaluated in herbal medicine treatment for this condition

  • The ratio of comedones, papules, pustules, and nodules, and the number of new acne breakouts per week
  • Facial heat, sebum, dryness, and digestion, bowel movements, and sleep
  • Menstrual cycle, oral and topical medications, the period of improvement, and the timing of recurrence
Acute Risk

Deep nodules, scarring, and other rashes are screened first

We check the depth and pain of the acne, the speed of scarring, redness, and heat, as well as symptoms appearing throughout the body, to ensure necessary dermatological care is not delayed.

Recurrence Context

Aligning the timing of hormones, products, and medications

The location and start date of acne, hormonal changes, new products, and all medications are compared within the same record.

Herbal Medicine Treatment

Clear goals are set for herbal medicine treatment for recurring acne

Herbal medicine treatment aims to reduce the speed and depth of new acne, the interval of recurrence in the same spot, and to restore the skin barrier. Whether to combine this with necessary dermatological treatment is decided based on current inflammation and medications.

Things to prepare before the consultationIf you prepare acne photos, start dates and locations, hormonal changes, new skin or hair products, all prescription drugs and supplements, and details of recurring flare-ups, we can discuss specifically how herbal medicine treatment can help during your consultation.

Deep nodules, widely spreading infections, and rapidly forming scars must be checked at a dermatology clinic without delay. For already pitted scars, separate procedures should be considered; Korean herbal medicine treatment examines the patterns of recurring new inflammation and the state of sleep, digestion, and menstruation that slow down skin recovery.

Consult about acne progress

Acne Glossary

Additional information regarding acne

You can check simple definitions before proceeding to detailed explanations.
Acne bacteriaAcne bacteria are bacteria that can live in the skin's sebaceous glands and hair follicles, and they are involved in inflammatory reactions within blocked follicles. The mere presence of these bacteria does not determine the severity of the acne.Follicular keratinizationFollicular hyperkeratosis is the process where dead skin cells at the opening of the hair follicle do not shed on time and clump together with sebum to create a blockage. This is one of the critical processes in the formation of comedones in acne.Inflammatory acneInflammatory acne is a collective term for acne with prominent inflammation, such as red and painful papules, pustules, and nodules. Because they differ in depth and pain levels, they are not treated as a single type.ComedonesA comedone is acne caused by sebum and dead skin cells blocking the opening of the hair follicle. If the opening is closed and appears white, it is called a closed comedone; if it is open and appears black, it is called an open comedone.SebumSebum is an oily substance produced by the sebaceous glands to protect the skin surface. Changes in the amount and secretion process can affect the formation of comedones and inflammation.Hair FollicleA hair follicle is a pocket inside the skin where hair grows. It is connected to the sebaceous gland, so if the opening is blocked or inflammation occurs, acne or folliculitis-related acne may appear.Topical RetinoidsTopical retinoids are applied medications used to reduce the process of pore blockage and treat comedones and inflammatory acne. They may cause dryness and stinging, so the method of use may need to be adjusted.Benzoyl PeroxideBenzoyl peroxide is a topical ingredient used to reduce acne-related bacteria and inflammation. It may cause dryness and stinging, or may bleach towels and fabrics.Open ComedonesAn open comedone is a type of acne where sebum and dead skin cells accumulate while the follicle opening remains open, making the surface appear black. This black color is different from accumulated dirt.Closed ComedonesA closed comedone is a type of acne where sebum and dead skin cells accumulate inside while the follicle opening is closed, appearing as a small white or skin-colored bump.PapulesA papule is a red and painful type of acne that is a small, firm, red elevation of the skin without visible pus.Sebaceous glandThe sebaceous gland is a skin structure connected to the hair follicle that produces sebum. When sebum and dead skin cells accumulate at the opening of the follicle, a comedone (plug) may form.Skin BarrierThe skin barrier refers to the function of the outer layer of the skin to retain moisture and prevent irritating substances from easily entering.ExfoliationExfoliation is a management practice that physically or chemically reduces dead skin cells on the skin surface. Overlapping multiple methods may worsen stinging and redness in acne-prone skin.Acne ByeonjeungByun-jeung is a Korean medicine diagnostic process used to determine the direction of Korean herbal medicine prescriptions. It examines how heat, sebum, dryness, and pain differ even for the same type of acne, and whether digestion, sleep, and menstrual status change repeatedly when acne worsens.PurgingPurging is an informal term referring to a change where blocked comedones seem to emerge more quickly during the early stages of certain treatments. Not all worsening of the skin can be explained as purging.MicrocomedoneMicrocomedones are an early stage of acne where sebum and dead skin cells begin to accumulate at the opening of the hair follicle, but are not yet clearly visible to the naked eye.

Frequently Asked Questions

Frequently Asked Questions About Acne

What is the primary cause of acne?

Sebum and skin cells poreblock the pore, followed by a process where bacteria and inflammation are added. Risk contexts such as hormones, family history, medications, and products overlap differently for each person.

Will acne disappear if I stop eating chocolate or drinking milk?

While the link between certain diets and worsening symptoms is being researched, a single specific food is not the cause for everyone. Record reactions that recur for you, but it is difficult to view one single food as the sole cause.

Does stress cause new acne?

Stress can worsen acne for some people, but it is not established as the sole cause. Hormones, sleep, and changes in products are also considered.

If I think it was caused by medication, can I stop taking it immediately?

Do not stop taking medication arbitrarily. Show the prescriber the name of the medication, the start or change date, and photos of the acne to discuss the correlation and safe alternatives.

Will it improve if I only eat foods that are good for acne?

A single specific food does not cure acne, nor does every person require the same diet. Acne is the result of multiple factors working together, including sebum, dead skin cells, follicle inflammation, and hormones. Record whether acne repeatedly worsens after certain foods, but prioritize standard skin treatments and a balanced diet over excessive restrictive dieting.

Can't I just keep applying antibiotic ointment?

Long-term use alone carries a risk of resistance, so it is used in combination with agents like BPO and the duration is limited. After improvement, consult about non-antibiotic maintenance therapy.

When do retinoids show results?

There may be initial irritation, and changes take time. Use consistently as prescribed, and typically compare photos to evaluate the response after 8 to 12 weeks.

Evidence and Update Information

Dr. Choi Yeon-seung, a Korean medicine doctor, organized this content based on the official professional materials and disease-specific clinical data below, and updated the content on 2026-08-26.

  1. NIAMS: AcneEvidence regarding the process of pore clogging by sebum and skin cells, bacterial and inflammatory action, and the influence of hormones, family history, certain medications, and aggravating factors
  2. American Academy of Dermatology: Adult acneEvidence regarding the context of hormonal fluctuations, stress, family history, skin and hair products, certain medications, and underlying diseases
  3. AAD: Updated Guidelines for Acne ManagementEvidence for combined treatment with topical retinoids and BPO, limiting the duration of antibiotics and combining them with BPO, and the use of isotretinoin for severe cases or treatment failure
  4. AAD: Acne Diagnosis and TreatmentPatient guidance evidence for topical and oral medications by acne type, and the combination of BPO and retinoids to reduce antibiotic resistance
  5. FDA: iPLEDGE Isotretinoin REMSOfficial basis for the risk of embryotoxicity and fetotoxicity of isotretinoin and risk management procedures for pregnancy prevention and testing
  6. American Academy of Dermatology: Acne overviewDistinction between comedones, papules, pustules, nodules, and cysts, and the risk of scarring from deep-seated acne